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The Brake System:

Maintenance
Brake fluid, like coolant, is relatively low maintenance. Nevertheless, you should still check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder once a month. The system might not take a lot of fluid, but you definitely don't want to run low. Most cars have an opaque reservoir to check the level without opening the tank. The brake system is a closed circuit, so your fluid levels shouldn't dip often. But if they do, your 'check brakes' warning light will illuminate on the dash board.

Make sure you address any leaks immediately. Sure, a leaky line will seal itself off, but you don't want to rely on just one set of brakes to stop. And if you have to add fluid, wipe off the top of the container beforehand. Don't do not want to get any dirt into the system.

Deciphering brake squeaks and squeals:

If your brakes are squeaking and squealing, don't just run out and have them changed. Oddly enough, not all of those noises are bad. Some squeaks are due to brake dust, while others are indications that your brakes need to be changed.

So how can you tell the difference? Sounds don't always mean the same thing, but there are a few tricks you can use:

If it's just a squeaking sound that doesn't sound like grinding metal, chances are it's just brake dust. That is, of course, if your brake shoes haven't been on your car very long. It's pretty common for new brakes to squeak. Shoes are made of thousands of tightly packed tiny slivers of metal. Newer pads often don't conform very well to the surface of the rotor, and squeaking can occur.

However, if you're hearing that high-pitched noise when your foot is off the brake pedal, chances are that it's time to change your brakes. Brakes have a small piece of softer metal that touches the rotor when it's time to change the shoes. Some people call this part the screamer, for obvious reasons. It won't do any harm to your rotor; basically, the screamer is there to say, 'hey, you better change your brakes soon, or else!' What's the 'or else,' you ask? Mega costly repairs, if you leave your brakes too low for too long.

When the pads wear down, it's just metal grinding against the metal rotor and drum. Grinding to a halt will eventually cut deep grooves into the rotor and drum, which is very costly to replace. Mechanics can shave a thin layer of metal off the rotor or drum to remove any shallow grooves, but if the scratches are too deep, you'll have to replace the whole thing. Great.

So how hard is it to change my brakes, you ask? :

Not that bad, believe it or not. After you remove the tire, you'll see the brakes exposed. Assuming you have disc brakes, take off the caliper and remove the old brake pads. Use a large C-clamp to re-compress the pistons, which will make room for new, thicker pads. Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper. Remount the tire, and you are done!

Unlike a hydraulic braking system, the parking (emergency) brake is a cable activated system. A large number of more modern vehicles use a hand lever to engage the parking brake. However, both the traditional emergency brake pedal and hand lever operate along the same basic principle.

Now that may or may not sound too difficult. Unless you know what you're doing, what starts out as a simple afternoon project can turn into a day-long slug-fest with your car. If you think you might want to work on your brakes but have never done it before, it is helpful to watch someone else or at least have a trusted friend who can at least provide technical support over the phone. When in doubt, pay someone else to do the job.
       
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Article Pages
1. The Brake System
2. Introduction
3. Principles Of Braking
4. Braking Requirements
5. Factors Controlling Retardation
6. External-Contracting And Internal-Expanding Brakes
7. Brake Types
8. Brake Drum Construction
9. Brake Shoes
10. Rotating And Non-Rotating Units
11. Self-Energizing Action
12. Disc Brake
13. Comparing Disc And Drum Brakes
14. Floating Caliper
15. Fixed Caliper
16. Hydraulic Brakes
17. Master Cylinder
18. Wheel Cylinder
19. Hydraulic Brake System Insepction
20. Before Road Test Inspection
21. Road Test Inspection
22. After Road Test Inspection
23. Air-Hydraulic Brake System
24. Air-Hydraulic Master Cylinder
25. Air-Hydraulic Cylinder
26. Air Compressor
27. Air Governor
28. Air-Hydraulic Brake System Components
29. Trailer Coupling Hoses And Connectors
30. Air-Over Hydraulic Cylinder
31. Operation Of Air-Hydraulic Brakes
32. Air-Hydraulic Brakes Of Large Trucks
33. Trailer Air-Over-Hydraulic Brake Systems
34. Air-Hydraulic Brake System Inspection
35. Before Road Test Inspection
36. Air-Hydraulic Brake System Road Inspection
37. Trouble Shooting Air-Hydraulic Brakes
38. Air-Brake System
39. Air-Brake Quick Release Valve
40. Air-Brake Relay Valve
41. Air-Brake Chamber
42. Air-Brake Slack Adjuster
43. Air-Brake Auxiliary Components
44. Semi-Trailer Air Brake Systems
45. Operation Of Straight Air-Brake System
46. Miscellaneous Air-Brake Components
47. Troubleshooting Straight Air Brake Systems

Hot Topics
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-> Replacing brake fluid

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